Phantom sailing can be made as simple or as technical as you want to
make it, this is one of the main reasons for its success as a class.
Due to the adjustments available in a modern Phantom the onshore setup
is really only a base on which to develop your own tuning notes.
This is measured from the outer tip to the side wall of the mast = 420mm.
If you are under 85kg you can shorten the spreaders to 412mm
, likewise if you are heavier than 99kg then you can lengthen them to 425mm.
This adds more support to the middle of the mast, essentially stiffening the mast section.
This is measured with a batten or straight edge across the aft side of
the shrouds, the distance from this batten to the back of the mast is
the spreader angle, this should be 145mm.
Mast Foot Position
The mast foot is measured from the aft edge of transom bar to the aft edge of the mast = 3280mm
Rig tension is actually one of the least important settings due to
the fact that the Phantom is such a powerful boat that you are easing
forestay to depower in relatively low wind speeds so the rig tension is
actually only used for light conditions of under 6kts (dependent on helm
One of the main reasons for measuring rig tension is to have a constant
measurement for setting up the mast rake. Therefore I set the rig up
with 300lbs of rig tension using a rig tension gauge on the shrouds.
The rake should then be as follows:
| Helm Weight|| Rake|
| < 91kgs|| 21'7|
| 92 - 100kgs|| 21'10|
| > 100kgs|| 22'|
I have added the lowers to sailing setup because they are key
factors to setting up the sail shape once afloat. In the light airs (sub
hiking) they should be slack, this allows the lower mast to bend with
normal mainsheet and kicker tension, in turn this takes out a little of
the excess shape from the luff of the sail. This is required because the
wind doesn't have enough energy to flow around deep sail shapes so it's
best to limit it's effort and flatten the lower part of the sail.
As the wind increases and kicker tension is added the lowers are then
tightened, this is so it acts as a brace against TOO much lower mast
bend due to the kicker. Less lowers tension is needed on flat water
where a flatter luff entry helps, than in rough sea conditions where a
fuller luff helps to make the boat more forgiving and easier to steer
The forestay is the first control to ease once the breeze
increases into a 'hiking' breeze, this helps to bend the rig and flatten
the sail, although you may lose a little pointing ability, however the
speed you gain from raking the rig will outweigh this, don't be afraid
to see the leeward shroud swinging wildly in the wind! This is very much
an individual preference so find settings you like and use a
calibration strip on the deck or the forestay adjusters to make easy
reference marks ( IMPORTANT: remember when you are max rake in
windy conditions to pull on the forestay downwind and prior to tacks so
you can get under the boom!)
The outhaul should be used in conjunction with the lowers, so in very light airs flatten the foot so there is just 50-60mm gap between the sail and the boom at max. depth. Gradually ease this as the wind increases to a maximum of 150mm
gap when looking for max. power, and then pull on the outhaul until you
have a crease running along the foot when you are looking for max.
The key control for most singlehanders it is doubly important in
the Phantom due to it's large roach mainsail, don't be afraid to keep
pulling it on as long as the top tell tail is flying 50% of the
time. Sub hiking conditions you should mainly be using mainsheet to
control the leech tension with the kicker adjusted to hold this tension
whenever you ease the mainsheet, then as the breeze increases the kicker
should be tensioned to keep a firm leech and aid pointing. Continue to
pull on more and more as the wind builds as its much quicker to sail
with the mainsheet eased (boom out beyond the quarter) and a lot of
kicker than the reverse of boom near the centreline with an open leech.
In sub hiking conditions under 5 knots you can have the board right
down, but as you rake the mast you will need to raise the centreboard to
maintain the balance, as soon as you feel you have too much weather
helm raise the board some more, you will be surprised at how little
board you need to maintain height once you are flat out hiking
especially when needing to steer a lot in choppy conditions.
When reaching pull on the forestay so the leeward shroud is under
some tension, this helps to power up the rig, ease the outhaul too ,
raise the board two-thirds, and as soon as you are close to planing move
your weight back and go for it! The same applies on the run where
sailing by the lee can be very quick as long as you ease enough kicker
to twist the head of the sail, beware this is very twitchy in anything
above a moderate breeze! The Phantom rewards hard work downwind so
keeping the boat flat and constantly trimming and steering for any waves
will pay dividends.
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