Most boats have an adjustable forestay which allows the crew to
change the mast rake for different wind velocities. Our rake is checked
by measuring the amount of forestay that exceeds the mast length. Hold
your forestay along the front of the mast and simply mark the forestay
at the point where the bottom of the mast would be. We check our rake by
measuring the distance from this mark to where the forestay intersects
with the deck. We suggest you set the rake at 74cm. After the rake is
set it is possible to make marks on the mainsheet, backstay, and jib
clew heights for different wind and wave conditions. In light wind
conditions (under 7 knots) we suggest a 77cm rake. This will increase "
feel " and make the boat easier to steer. Remember that every time you
change the rake all these control marks have to be changed.
Our shroud tension is measured with the shroud in the forward
position, and the backstay on, so the headstay is snug at 75cm of mast
rake. Uppers should be at 700lbs at all conditions. Lowers should be set
so the mast (when sailing) has 3 - 5cm of sag at the spreaders for
light air, increase tension to 500lbs at 18 knots of wind.
Please remember that the more upper shroud tension you have, the
more pre-bend you will have. If you have a soft mast, and or the
mainsail looks a bit flat, you may need less upper tension.
We have five settings for the fore and aft movement of the shroud position at the deck. The total travel is 30cm.
| Track Position|| Wind|| Wind Range (knots)|
| #1 Full forward|| Light|| 0 -7|
| #2|| Light to medium|| 7-10|
| #3 Middle track|| Medium|| 10-16|
| #4 || Fresh|| 16-20|
| #5 Full aft|| Strong|| 20+|
Be careful not to de-power the boat too quickly, especially in the waves.
We recommend the following sail combinations:
There are two things that the backstay does, controls the fullness in
the mainsail and also the forestay sag. This is probably the most
important adjustment for the Soling. The more backstay tension, the
flatter the main, and the less forestay sag results in a flatter jib. I
have my backstay marked on every inch, so it is easy to repeat fast
settings and have the boat ready, quickly after mark rounding. Our
mainsail is designed so that the mast bend and forestay sag are matched
for the conditions.
The mainsheet controls the top part of the mainsail. The quickest and
most accurate way to trim the mainsail is to watch the angle of the top
batten. Sighting from under the boom, the top batten should be parallel
to the boom most of the time, except in overpowered conditions. In flat
water, the top batten can point five degrees to weather of the
centreline, and when overpowered, it should open from centerline until
the helm balances.
The rule of thumb, is to have the vang adjusted for the downwind
legs, so the top batten is parallel to the boom. This control is also
important when close hauled, by helping control the forestay sag and
making the jib either more or less powerful. In smooth water, the vang
should not be used, so the forestay is as straight as possible. In
choppy waters, boom vang should be used, and by experimenting you will
be able to find the perfect tension, which is normally when the helm is
In light air the outhaul should be stretched to about 2.5 - 4cm from
the maximum out. As the wind increases pull the outhaul all the way out
so the sail is perfectly flat right against the boom. In reaching, the
outhaul should be at maximum ease (about 6cm).
The boom should be about 10cm above the centreline until both crews
are over the side and the boat is overpowered. At this point
the traveller should be placed on the centreline (occasionally the
traveller should be placed below the centreline).
A good starting position is 30cm athwart the boat centreline. In
heavy airs, it should go outboard 5 - 10cm (20 knots and above), this
will help stop the back wind on the mainsail under heavy breezes.
This will vary from boat to boat, but the third hole for the LS-5
jib jib and the LS-5-H jib will be a good starting point. When it is
light and the crew is inside or not fully hiked, make the jib fuller
down low, by going to a higher hole (or just by moving the whole jib
up). When the crew is fully hiked and the wind is stronger, make the
foot flatter, by moving to a lower clew hole (or by moving the whole jib
down). For full power conditions the jib should luff evenly from top to
All jibs should be set with minimum luff tension, just enough to take
most of the scallops out, DON'T OVER STRETCH. Too much tension moves
the draft forward, which is very slow.
Running and Reaching ith the Spinnaker
Alot can be done in terms of speed when running and reaching, and if
you are faster than the competition that could be the necessary edge you
need to win. It is a well know fact that, when sailing downwind, the
fastest setting is to move the mast as far forward as your backstay will
allow. The other important controls are the pole fore & aft and up
& down. For fore & aft adjustments try to have the luff of the
spinnaker perpendicular to the the pole. For up & down control the
pole should be adjusted so the clews are an even height from the water.
Good luck on the water!