Mast Rake 

Most boats have an adjustable forestay which allows the crew to change the mast rake for different wind velocities. Our rake is checked by measuring the amount of forestay that exceeds the mast length. Hold your forestay along the front of the mast and simply mark the forestay at the point where the bottom of the mast would be. We check our rake by measuring the distance from this mark to where the forestay intersects with the deck. We suggest you set the rake at 74cm. After the rake is set it is possible to make marks on the mainsheet, backstay, and jib clew heights for different wind and wave conditions. In light wind conditions (under 7 knots) we suggest a 77cm rake. This will increase " feel " and make the boat easier to steer. Remember that every time you change the rake all these control marks have to be changed.

Shroud Tension

Our shroud tension is measured with the shroud in the forward position, and the backstay on, so the headstay is snug at 75cm of mast rake. Uppers should be at 700lbs at all conditions. Lowers should be set so the mast (when sailing) has 3 - 5cm of sag at the spreaders for light air, increase tension to 500lbs at 18 knots of wind.
Please remember that the more upper shroud tension you have, the more pre-bend you will have. If you have a soft mast, and or the mainsail looks a bit flat, you may need less upper tension.

Shroud Position

We have five settings for the fore and aft movement of the shroud position at the deck. The total travel is 30cm.


 Track Position Wind Wind Range (knots)
 #1 Full forward Light 0 -7
 #2 Light to medium 7-10
 #3 Middle track Medium 10-16
 #4  Fresh 16-20
 #5 Full aft Strong 20+
Be careful not to de-power the boat too quickly, especially in the waves.

Sail Combinations

We recommend the following sail combinations:

  • 0- 15 knots DC-1 Main and V-1 + Jib
  • 16 knots and above DC-1 Main and LS-5-H Jib
  • Backstay

    There are two things that the backstay does, controls the fullness in the mainsail and also the forestay sag. This is probably the most important adjustment for the Soling. The more backstay tension, the flatter the main, and the less forestay sag results in a flatter jib. I have my backstay marked on every inch, so it is easy to repeat fast settings and have the boat ready, quickly after mark rounding. Our mainsail is designed so that the mast bend and forestay sag are matched for the conditions.

    Mainsheet Tension

    The mainsheet controls the top part of the mainsail. The quickest and most accurate way to trim the mainsail is to watch the angle of the top batten. Sighting from under the boom, the top batten should be parallel to the boom most of the time, except in overpowered conditions. In flat water, the top batten can point five degrees to weather of the centreline, and when overpowered, it should open from centerline until the helm balances.

    Boom Vang

    The rule of thumb, is to have the vang adjusted for the downwind legs, so the top batten is parallel to the boom. This control is also important when close hauled, by helping control the forestay sag and making the jib either more or less powerful. In smooth water, the vang should not be used, so the forestay is as straight as possible. In choppy waters, boom vang should be used, and by experimenting you will be able to find the perfect tension, which is normally when the helm is almost neutral.


    In light air the outhaul should be stretched to about 2.5 - 4cm from the maximum out. As the wind increases pull the outhaul all the way out so the sail is perfectly flat right against the boom. In reaching, the outhaul should be at maximum ease (about 6cm).

    Mainsail Traveller

    The boom should be about 10cm above the centreline until both crews are over the side and the boat is overpowered. At this point the traveller should be placed on the centreline (occasionally the traveller should be placed below the centreline).

    Jib Traveller

    A good starting position is 30cm athwart the boat centreline. In heavy airs, it should go outboard 5 - 10cm (20 knots and above), this will help stop the back wind on the mainsail under heavy breezes.

    Cleward Position

    This will vary from boat to boat, but the third hole for the LS-5 jib jib and the LS-5-H jib will be a good starting point. When it is light and the crew is inside or not fully hiked, make the jib fuller down low, by going to a higher hole (or just by moving the whole jib up). When the crew is fully hiked and the wind is stronger, make the foot flatter, by moving to a lower clew hole (or by moving the whole jib down). For full power conditions the jib should luff evenly from top to bottom.

    Luff Tension

    All jibs should be set with minimum luff tension, just enough to take most of the scallops out, DON'T OVER STRETCH. Too much tension moves the draft forward, which is very slow.

    Running and Reaching ith the Spinnaker

    Alot can be done in terms of speed when running and reaching, and if you are faster than the competition that could be the necessary edge you need to win. It is a well know fact that, when sailing downwind, the fastest setting is to move the mast as far forward as your backstay will allow. The other important controls are the pole fore & aft and up & down. For fore & aft adjustments try to have the luff of the spinnaker perpendicular to the the pole. For up & down control the pole should be adjusted so the clews are an even height from the water.

    Good luck on the water! 

    Contact the Soling experts:

    Theis Palm

    +45 3920 4090 Work