The purpose of this tuning-guide is to give our clients in the
Yngling class some guidelines on how to get the most out of their North
The tuning guide is made by Mads Christensen, tripple World Champion from Denmark and Arne Kristian Dahl from Norway.
Follow the guidelines, but always experiment and try finding your own
trim. The weight of the crew, the balance of the boat, the stiffness of
the mast together with specific local wind and sea conditions all have
influence on the fastest and final trim.
Before stepping the mast in the boat, some very important measurements have to be made to follow this tuning guide.
1. The length and angle of the spreaders are important to the
shape of the main, because they help to control the bend of the mast and
thereby the tension of the forestay. The length of the spreaders is
measured from the side of the mast to where the shroud passes the
spreader. It is measured along the middle of the spreader
2. Lead the upper shrouds and forestay along the mast, the upper
have to be out of the spreader tips. Pull them as hard as you can and
put a mark on all three wires at the height of the black mark at the
gooseneck. These three marks are now used to check if the mast is
straight from side to side in the boat, and to check the mast rake. The
mast is then stepped.
3. The foot of the mast is placed so that the distance between
the centre of the forestay pin to the front edge of the mast is 1,925 m.
4. Control that the distance from the top of the gooseneck mark
to the deck measured along the side of the mast is 50 cm. Any possible
difference should be adjusted when setting the forestay in the next
5. The mast rake is set so that the distance from the mark on the forestay to deck measured along the forestay is 1,08 m.
6. Now that the correct mast rake has been set, control that the
mast rest on the full surface. If this is not the case, the pressure on
the rig will become uneven and the forestay unsteady.
7. The marks on the top shrouds (from step 2) are now used to
control if the mast is placed in the middle of the boat. This is done
best by measuring the distance from the mark to the deck. This should be
the same on both sides.
8. Many different tension-meters are used to measure rig-tension.
Even tension-meters of the same kind tend to vary quite a lot. To give
you an idea of the different measurements, we have used a tension-meter
where there figures can be converted into kilos. Light wind 50 kg,
medium wind 120 kg, strong winds 180 kg and very strong winds 230 kg.
9. The bottom shrouds are tensioned, so that the mast is
completely straight in the boat up to 20-22 knots. From here on tighten
them till the mast drops 5-10 cm off to leeward at the forestay fixture -
the exact measure depending on crew weight.
1. Sheeting the main
The mainsheet is the most important factor when trimming the main.
Even minor adjustments can have a big effect on speed and pointing. If
the sail is sheeted hard the leech will close more and increase rudder
pressure, but the pointing ability will be improved. This can be used in
middle air and flat water as long as the boat can be hiked flat. In
light wind the mainsheet is eased so that the tell-tale by the topbatten
flies straight aft. In heavy winds the mainsheet is pulled very tight
and the backstay is pulled until the boat becomes light on the rudder
again. As the waves increase more twist is needed to facilitate
steering. At the same time it improves speed and hereby pointing. As a
thumb rule trim the aft part of the topbatten parallel to the boom in
all wind strengths.
The outhaul is also an important factor when trimming as it controls
the draft in the bottom of the mainsail. In light winds (0-4 knots) the
sail should be 4 cm from the mark. In a little more wind (4-10 knots)
about 2 cm from the mark and in more wind than this pull the sail all
the way to the mark.
Avoid using the cunningham in light winds. In middle winds pull only
so much so that the wrinkles disappear. In winds above 14 knots pull
the cunningham hard to open the leech and the draft forward.
The backstay has two functions: To control mainsail depth and to control forestay sag.
This means that a tighter backstay flattens and opens the mainsail,
gives less forestay sag and hereby a flatter jib. We have put marks on
our backstay every 5 cm, so we can return to good trim after mark
5. Kicking Strap
The kicking strap is used upwind in heavy winds to bend the mast and
hereby opening the sail in the bottom part. It also keeps the leech
from opening too much when easing the mainsheet in the gusts. Never use
the kicking strap upwind in less than 16 knots. Remember always to ease
the kicker before going downwind to prevent the boom from breaking.
When reaching, set the kicking strap so that the aft part of the top batten is kept parallel to the boom.
1. Jib Lead
As a general rule, set the jib lead at a distance of 2,00 m from the
forestay pin to the centre of the block. The jib shall luff evenly
along the luff of the sail. This means that the telltales should break
evenly. In light air we sheet forward to 1,88 m from the forestay pin,
in heavy air 2,03 m.
2. Halyard tension
Never over-tighten the halyard as this will move the draft to far
forward. Pull as much as to remove the creases, but not more. In light
winds leave some creases at the luff as this will cause the draft to
move aft, thereby increasing depth.
The height of the spinnaker pole on the mast should be 1,15 m over
the cabin top roof. The pole is kept a little over horizontal in most
conditions. Our G radient spinnaker is designed for this. In light winds
the pole height is adjusted to keep the clews at the same height to get
the best angle of attack on the windward leech and keeping the leeward
leech open. In heavy winds on a tight reach, the spinnaker pole should
at no time be closer to the forestay than 30 cm to prevent the boat from
coming out of control.
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